Rate my boat design wise - Nienke III.

This is my boat Nienke III. built by Thoma Shipyard in Holland 1974. It has a box keel, which is about 1 m wide and in the shape of aerodynamical profile and those two bilge keels. I was warned that she "wont point so well" by some smartass when I was buying her and lo, she points rather well, even though not as latests bavaria. The top speed with good wind about 8kts, 5-6 normally. 12 meter/12 ton. She only draws about 1 m of water, so its easy to cross shallows. I think whoever designed her looked at old fishing boats for inspiration. Only 2 were built in this size, the other one in 1990.

 

I used to hate laying on my back in mud, cleaning the inside face of bilge keels on my old triple keel waterwitch. Lots of wetted surface area and not great windward performance. However, it was the best liveaboard yacht i owned and really went places my other yachts could not access due to deeper draft. "Fast" cruising boats are also a compromise.........

 

Speed is relative - and pointing ability is also relative. It all depends on what you are happy / comfortable with.

Re 'rating your boat design wise', she does look like a comfortable liveaboard cruiser - can you post some more photos of her please?

And re your other thread here -
Hull through https://www.boatdesign.net/threads/hull-through.69554/
Can you also post some photos of the through hull fittings that you are concerned about?

 

Well, this is how she looks like on the water, its a handsome vessel. I dont have any pictures of the hull through, but its just pipes welded in. The kitchen is about 3/4" and the toilet is 6/4" , th ekitchen actually has a valve, but that is already over the waterline, so its dry. But there must be lots of stuff growing in it. I will be changing also the old toilet, now when the boat is out of the water. The connection to the welded pipe is not visible, just a silicon block, but I suppose there is no valve and problems to happen. I would cut the old pipe, which is short out and weld in one that would reach again over the waterline (easy with my shallow draft) and the screw the valve with a hose reduction to plug the toilet in. I m merelly asking if that is a common solution to put the valve that high. With my logic, the valve is what cracks if there are problems, the pipe itself, thick walled is a safe thing.