First timer outboard installation

Understood, @kapnD

 

I would be thinking in terms of specialist props for this application where aeration is going to be in play, I know some boats with nagging aeration problems have benefited from five-bladed stainless, the logic appearing to be that more blade area is out of the aeration zone. There is a limit to how far you can drop the motor to get away from aerated water, and as mentioned by kapnD, drag and fountains of water are onerous.

 

The splashwell bulkhead does nothing, but make a protected area for 30 grand worth of engines to tilt into.

 

Where would this bulkhead go?

 

It doesn't need to be all the way to the hull, but most boats would have a splashwell bulkhead designed to be deep enough for n aft for the powerheads to tilt into. All the way meaning you could start it off the deck instead of off the hull. That said, seems like you need to have some knees in here as well. I'd say the section (needs improvement). I don't believe two stringers sufficient on my guthunch.

The red arrow could be made into some 6" beckson deck plates so you can get a wrench in for accessing the lower bolts. If you install bh above the sole; you'd need to cut the sole. If you install the bh above the deck only; then you'd need to cut some access holes in the sole for accessing the lower bolts.

With twin engines, you will need a place for your throttle and shift unless you buy modern stuff that is all by wire. And those cable routings can't fly through the aft cockpit. The bulkhead, done a bit more complex than what I drew here can be the place for the cables.

 

By more complex, all I mean is the splashwell angle could be lower and you could give yourself a few inche of bulkhead top for cable routings, or you could build a wider section with conduit, etc...

But the port engine control lines need to have a home and I am seein none..

 

Food for thought.

If you do nothing, your control lines would lie on the sole, sort of in harms way. Gotta make sure you have room to tip, but the jackplates help there, too.

 

I don't know how hard a corner you can make with the throttle and shift cables. I am going to actuators pretty much straight away. In the picture of mine, you can see my hole I had to cut to access the lower bolts and fix the cleat location ... gets paint in spring 22

 

Lots of good stuff there @fallguy . Thanks

 

That bulkhead also keeps broaching waves out of the cockpit, or if you are backing into oncoming seas. For 20" legs, the full height transom is say 25" or more. In a small skiff, you get soaked unless you have wave wackers. And while it may not seem like an issue, it is always an issue to have a deluge of seawater entering. And a false economy to think well, I want all the space, because you can't drop stuff on the lines anyhow...

In your boat, you could probably mix it up some and keep the engines far apart, and have a bench in between them, but this may interfere with say steering lines, so the space is best reserved for 'boat stuff'. Although, well planned, a bench might be possible, only it is sort of weird/close
to water.

 

Understood

 

I've found a pair of 1998 Evinrude Ficht engines, low mileage for sale. The reputation on these engines is not stellar. Anyone have actual hands on experience?

 

Would it be possible to have the engines fired up and tested?
There is a marine engineer surveyor here who has full computer diagnostic testing equipment for outboard engines - it will give him the full history of the engine, including hours run, and how many hours at different speeds. If you can find somebody up your way who has this equipment, and if the engines are compatible (I don't know if they might be too old for this?) then you would be able to get the full life story of the engines (?)

 

Evinrude is out of business. This is a bad opening for a new boat.

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